Rock Climbing Gear Reviews
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X Chalkby Zen Lizard
Approx. Cost: $1.00 / oz
Date Reviewed: 4/13/2004
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Who loves the smell of chalk in the morning? Who loves getting a big mouthful of it when your mouth is already dry? Well, now you will. The guys at Zen Lizard have created a natural chalk mix with a pleasant smell. Whether or not it was meant to be aroma therapy, the clove smell emitted from your hands as you climb will certainly calm you and help you focus. After using this stuff, I find I keep wishing to have the smell on my hands. The chalk itself is ground fine, yet offers a bit of grit, presumably the extra ingredients, one of which helps your hands heal. As with most more expensive alternatives to block chalk, I recommend a 50/50 mix ratio between this stuff and normal ol' block chalk (though they say use it full strength, but whatever). If you use a chalk ball, then just open it up and pour it in at 100% strength.
Usefulness: High
Quality: High
Price: Reasonable
Recommendation: High
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ATC-XPby Black Diamond
Approx. Cost: $20
Date Reviewed: 11/12/2003
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Black Diamond has done it again, producing an innovated new design to an old favorite. The ATC-XP is a redesign of it's parent, the ATC. The obvious difference is it's jaws on one side of the rope hole which when used for belaying or repelling creates a greatly increased amount of friction on the system therefore reducing the force needed by your skin. Other enhancements are a thicker tube wall increasing it's life span (and it's over all weight) and a heaver gauge wire. Another distinct feature is it's lack of anodization, instead it sports a thick sticker which is to be used to insulate your fingers from heat. I've been happy with this device, but I'm not sure if the added friction aspect of it is worth the extra dollars beyond that of a normal ATC. Unless you need a beefy device due to heavy use or are belaying lots of heavy people, it might be more than you need. But, hey, we all love cool new toys for our rack, don't we?
Usefulness: Medium
Quality: High
Price: Higher than the ATC
Recommendation: Medium
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2 Cam and 4 Camby Splitter Gear
Approx. Cost: $52.00 each
Date Reviewed: 6/28/2003
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Splitter Gear has introduced a new idea for the spring loaded camming device. They have designed a series of cams where the lobes are not off set, but are aligned so that when in the resting position, opposite lobes are resting against each other, supposedly to reduce walking and decrease axal length. The stems are single post with a webbing loop sown through a metal hoop. Due to the single post, it has a two finger trigger.
They are light, small, solidly constructed, and don't clutter your rack with excess stuff to tangle itself with your other equipment. The runner length is long enough to use easily, but short enough that they don't wrap around each other in a big tangle. I am a fan of the one finger action of a horse shoe loop cam, so I don't like the two finger aspect, but it is smooth and offers a good differential between the lobe rotation and trigger distance. The head width is shorter than most small cams meaning you can slide it into smaller spaces. Though they didn't walk as much as a "normal" cam, the four lobe cams did walk a bit. The two lobers seemed very sketchy unless placed in a crack with utterly flat and parallel sides where the entire lobe face of both lobes had contact with rock. Because of this, the two lobe cams would swing in place side to side, not instilling confidence in the placement.
Thus, I found these cams work best in perfect spitter cracks (surprised?), but not very well in flaring cracks. I also found they work best in the vertical position, and tend to not fit well when placed horizontally. Because they are not as expensive as other cams on the market, they would be cheaper to obtain, but due to their limits, you might be better off spending the extra dollars and get more versatile cams.
Usefulness: Low
Quality: High
Price: Reasonable
Recommendation: Maybe
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Anasazi Velcroby FiveTen
Approx. Cost: $140
Date Reviewed: 11/11/2002
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I hate it when reviews start off with "At first I refused to wear slipper style shoes until I tried one on..." So I'm not going to. What I am going to say is the Anasazi velcro slipper is very comfortable, from the get go, with little break in time. And I climb in my pair about 40% of the time. But let's think for a moment, why and when do we wear slippers? Answer: wear slippers to be relaxed and lazy in. Thus, climbers who wear them like the on and off quickness and the comfort, but as a performance shoe, it lacks. Once rightfully broken in, they offer little to no edging. They do offer great smearing between the rubber and rock, but also the foot and the shoe. Once you brew up a good sweat, a well broken in Anasazi will slip right round your foot when you are cranking on them the most. The shoe has broken in to the point of increasing a full size no matter how tight you crank those velcro strips. With a blunt toe not conducive to pockets, I have found less and less use for these shoes save messing around in the gym. I will say this, I have had mine resoled twice and the rest of the shoe has held up to much abuse, so quality in craftsmanship is exceptional. Over all, a good shoe, but get a lace up (FiveTen does make a lace up version) which will suit more of your needs and stop being a lazy climber!
Usefulness: Mid to Low
Quality: High
Price: Reasonable
Recommendation: Get a lace up
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Vaporby Arc'Teryx
Approx. Cost: $100
Date Reviewed: 7/22/2002
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I have done my share of hang dogging routes. I've belayed a partner doing the same. I've even had a hanging belay or two. I've been known to take a few wipers. I've even used my harness a swing in camp. All that being said, I've learned the extreme importance of having a good harness that fits well and offers the functionality you need.
A harness is one of a climber's very first investments, and after the cost of a pair of shoes, many of us are weary to dump more money into a decent harness. Well, forget that! After an epic or two using other harnesses, some being cheaper while some being just as much as the Arc'Teryx Vapor, I have come to swear it as the best harness around.
Its sturdy and amply padded construction is very comfortable, great for most applications but probably not for hours of hanging while belaying an aid lead. Though the sewn leg loops took a bit of getting used to, I have become quite fond of them, besides who really unbuckles their adjustable ones anyway. Furthermore, the leg loops, as well as the waist belt, are of perfect proportions from wide enough to offer good support, but not so wide they hinder movement.
After trying and disliking the molded plastic gear loops of Petzl'sx Calidris, I have found a new appreciation for the plastic tube covered cordlette, which the Vapor sports four of as well as a haul loop. It's relatively light weight and offers uninhibited freedom of movement. The price is on the upper end of the spectrum, but given it's quality, ruggedness, and great design as an undeniably all around harness, it is worth the extra dollars.
Usefulness: High
Quality: High
Price: High
Recommendation: High
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