Rock Climbing Guide Books
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Bay Area Rock by Jim Thornburg.
Potlicker Press, 1992.
ISBN: n/a
Coverage: The San Francisco Bay Area.
Comments: This book is a good example of what a guide book should not be. First, it assumes the reader is familar with the bay area and the locations of the listed climbs. Furthermore, the amount of route info is so small that a climber who knew how to get to the area would most likely already know the beta. Combined with bad (or no) directions, poorly drawn maps, and no "over all" map for those with little Bay Area knowledge, this book is as useless to a S.F. climber as it is to a traveler looking for a day trip.
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Blocs en Stock: le Cuvier by Pierre Allain.
Imp. LEGRAND et Fils, 1993.
ISBN: n/a
Coverage: Cuvier crag in Fontainebleau, France
Comments: Here is an older guide book covering only the Cuvier crag and is a compliation of previous works. It includes (mostly) French and English versions of the history and other information on the area. The route maps aren't the best, but good enough. Over all, it's an interesting book, but not worth getting unless you are only climbing in the Cuvier area.
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Blue Mountains: Selected Climbing Areas by Martin Pircher & Simon Carter.
Onsite Photography and Publishing, 1999.
ISBN: 0646385879
Coverage: The Blue Mountains, New South Wales, Australia
Comments: This is a nice compliation of popular climbs in the Blue Mountains area. Note, it is a list of popular climbs, not best climbs. It's relitivly easy to use, the maps are good, once you get used to reading them. It would be nice if it listed pro beta or numbers of draws needed for climbs. It does list in a very nice way, the types of climbs for each area, ways to get there, when the walls get sun, and other useful but often dismissed information.
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Blue Mountians, The: A Guide to Selected Rockclimbs by Michael Law.
Wild Publications Pty Ltd, 1994.
ISBN: 0646167294
Coverage: The Blue Mountians, Australia
Comments: This small book, encased in a plastic cover, is a great guide for a quick trip up there to climb some classics. The maps are spectacular, the route descriptions are great, and the book is pocket friendly. Probably the best book to buy for a seasoned climber looking for a few days of fun climbing (and not route searching) in the Blue Mountians.
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Classic Rock Climbs: Sam's Throne, Arkansas by Clay Frisbie.
Chockstone Press, Inc., 1997.
ISBN: 1-57540-025-1
Coverage: Sam's Throne and surrounding area in north-central Arkansas
Comments: Very nice book with easy to follow directions and trail/route maps. Though it doesn't give much geographical history of the area or sizes of pro needed for particular routes, it is a must have for anyone planing on climbing in the Sam's Throne area.
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Classic Rock: Joshua Tree National Park by Randy Vogel.
Globe Pequot Press, 1997.
ISBN: 1-57540-029-4
Coverage: Joshua Tree National Park
Comments: Here is a selection of the classic climbs in the world famous J. Tree. The maps and info are what you'd expect from a Falcon guide, clear and concise. Though there aren't many boulder problems listed, the guide boasts about 300 or so of the 4000+ routes scattered about the large park.
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Climber's Guide to Natal Rock, A by Roger Nattrass.
1994.
ISBN: n/a
Coverage: Northeastern coastal and inland areas on South Africa
Comments: This book is both informative and out of print, so it will be hard to find. If you do ever get a copy, it is a good base for both traditional and sport routes within an hour or so drive of Durban, South Africa. It's route descriptions are good and the maps are better. It also rates every route in it with stars so you don't waste your time climbing crap. Though a bit out of date now and only getting more so, this is definatly a worth while book to have.
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Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument (2nd ed.) by David Rubine.
Falcon Guides.
ISBN: 0-934641-89-7
Coverage: Pinnacles National Monument, California
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Climber's Guide to the Midwest's Metamorphic Forms by Marcus Floyd.
Metamorphic Forms, 1998.
ISBN: 1-892753-00-6
Coverage: Missouri, Illinois, Arkansas, Kansas, Oklahoma
Comments: A large quanity of sites covered, but sketchy descriptions and directions make it hard to follow or find what you are looking for. Includes other information such as trails and bike paths as well.
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Climbing in the Adirondacks (3rd ed.) by Don Mellor.
The Adirondack Mountain Club, Inc., 1995.
ISBN: 0-935272-79-8
Coverage: The Adirondack Mountains, New York
Comments: This is the Bible for those climbing in the Adirondack Mountains. Though the written information in this book is plentiful and concise, it lacks both area maps and route maps. But, the few route maps it offers are excellent. It is obvious a lot of work has gone into this book leaving it far above most climbing guides.
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Cost Blanca, Majorca, El Chorro by Alan James, Alan Cameron-Duff and Rab Anderson.
RockFax, 1998.
ISBN: 1-873341-30-X
http://www.rockfax.co.uk
Coverage: The Costa Blanca Area, Spain
Comments: The usual RockFax format means that they can cram in a lot of information and still leave the guide easy to read and the information easy to find. However, as usual, they do not produce detailed route descriptions but rely upon decent topos. This is often fine especially on these sport routes where the line is clearly defined by the generous bolting but just occasionally can catch you out if the routes are closely packed together.
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Costa Blanca Rock by Chris Craggs.
Cicerone Press, 1997.
ISBN: 1-85284-241-5
Coverage: Costa Blanca, Spain
Comments: This book is a fairly in-depth guide to the region. The guide uses a traditional layout with rough crag diagrams, long textual descriptions of the routes, and some sketches that leave a lot to the imagination.
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Desert Rock: Rock Climbs in the National Parks by Eric Bjornstad.
Falcon Publishing, Inc., 1996.
ISBN: 0-934641-92-7
http://www.falconguide.com
Coverage: Zion, Capital Reef, Arches, Canyonlands
Comments: Here is the guide book you need if you are climbing in the National Parks of southeastern Utah. The phenomenal route bata for all routes help make up for the fact there are not route maps for all routes, leaving you to find some of them by the word description alone. Combined with the fact it is ONLY national park routes (none of the surrounding areas), this book isn't a instant grab. You can get select books that cover the main park climbs as well as the main ones off park land.
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Devil's Tower National Monument Climbing Handbook by Richard Guilmette, Renee Carrier, Steve Gardiner.
Devil's Tower National History Association, 2000.
ISBN: 1-880667-01-4
Coverage: Devil's Tower, Wyoming
Comments: This is a comprehensive guide of the tower from "Close Encounters of the Third Kind." It offers excellent route beta with not so good route maps drawn onto black and white pictures of the walls. It also includes come interesting information of the formation itself as well as it's symbolism it has to the local Indian culture. Worthwhile to have since it's the only one, but beta from the locals (Frank) will probably be much more helpful.
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Dolomites: Selected Climbs by Ron James.
Alpine Club, 1988.
ISBN: 0-900523-55-7
Coverage: The Dolomites, Northern Italy
Comments: The Dolomites are a large complex area of limestone mountains in the northeast of Italy. The rocks rise directly out of deep valleys providing incredible scenery and easy access. This guide book has a comprehensive selection of over 400 climbs of all grades to suit a wide range of abilities. The choice includes the classics which attract crowds and other routes which may be less crowded. Many routes can be done in a day from the road but some require the use of huts. Hut information and hut links are included. Photo-diagrams are used to show routes.
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Esclade a Fontainebleau by Jo & Francois Montchausse & Jacky Godoffe.
Guides Arthaud, 1999.
ISBN: 2-7003-11-90-6
Coverage: Fontainebleau, France
Comments: This is one of the best guide books out there. Though in French, it is easy to follow with loads of graphics and charts. The area maps are excellent depicting different colored curcuits for each area, each color representing a different ablility level. This book is a must have for any first time climber there.
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Indian Creek: A Climbing Guide by David Bloom.
Sharp End Publishing, LLC, 2004.
ISBN: 1-892540-33-9
http://www.sharpendbooks.com
Coverage: Indian Creek, UT
Comments: This is the replacement for the previous thin and not-so-thorough book and is the king of guide books, by far, featuring full-color pages, cover placement flaps, incredible photos, route maps, and, yes, a hefty price tag. The route maps are both shown in great hand drawn color maps as well as color photos of the cliff line itself. Unlike other books in black and white, this book's photos make line finding a snap. The only complaint is the book is filled with advertisement, as if the price tag alone didn't pay for it. A must have for your collection even if you are replacing the old book.
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Missouri LimeStone Select by Sean 'Bovine' Burnes.
Pebble Publishing, Inc., 2001.
ISBN: 1-891708-09-0
Coverage: Missouri Limestone ares
Comments: This is a very well laid out guide book. It offers easy to read maps and good route descriptions. The author is obviously very knowledgeable about the beta offered. Though it only covers the limestone crags of Missouri it is definitely a worth while book to own if you climb in the heart of the mid west.
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Mt. Rushmore National Monument: Climber's Guide by Vernon R. Phinney.
Vernon R. Phinney, 1995.
ISBN: n/a
Coverage: Mt. Rushmore area, South Dakota
Comments: Here is a standard climbers guide. Line drawn maps that are pretty close but are confusing to match up with the route descriptions due to the numbering and lettering system. If you and your family are visiting the Dead Presidents, you can climb some fun routes in a day that are only a walk a way from them with some draws and a small rack.
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Nortern Rock: a climber's guide to Northland and Auckland by Paul Hersey & Ton Snelder.
New Zealand Alpine Club, 1997.
ISBN: 0-9597630-4
Coverage: Auckland and Northland, New Zealand
Comments: A simple book with good descriptions and maps. Nice if you are only climbing in the Auckland area.
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Recommended Climbing Routes in the Needles of Custer State Park by John Page.
1999.
ISBN: n/a
Coverage: The Needles in Custer State Park located in the Black Hills, SD
Comments: This is a self-published (photocopied) booklet that contains some of the more popular and classic routes of the Needles. It offers general beta on the area as well as some nicely drawn and labeled maps. Unfortionately it's a bit pricey for it's small size, but is a definate pick up if you only have a day or two there are are looking to do the fun ones.
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Red River Gorge Climbs 2nd Ed. by John H. Bronaugh.
Geezer Press, 1998.
ISBN: n/a
Coverage: The Red River Gorge in Slade, Kentucky
Comments: This is one of the most comprehensive guide books I've ever seen. It lists over 1,000 sport, trad, and mixed routes and offers great beta on each. Easy to follow directions, maps, and index makes this on of the best guide books on the market. A definate must for anyone traveling to Kentucky.
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Red Rocks Select (2nd ed.) by Todd Swain.
Falcon Press Publishing Co., Inc, 1995.
ISBN: 0-934641-86-2
http://www.falconbooks.com
Coverage: Red RocksCanyon National Conservation Area, Nevada
Comments: This is a very easy to follow guide. It's maps are and directions are quite understandable. Futhermore, it lists over 780 routes for the area.
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Rock Climbing Guide to Dalkey (7th issue) by Howard Hebblethwaite & Colm O'Cofaigh (editors).
M.C.I. Guides, 1991.
ISBN: n/a
Coverage: The Dalkey quarry in Dublin, Ireland
Comments: Here is a small book covering an easily accessable crag near Dublin, Ireland. Though the route maps and route descriptions are excellent, the book lacks over all directions and locations (probably assuming most of the readers would be locals who knew that beta anyway).
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Rock Climbing: Yosemite's Select by Don Reid.
Second West, 1998.
ISBN: 1-57540-115-0
http://www.falconbooks.com
Coverage: Yosemite Valley
Comments: A compilation of Yosemite Valley's greatest and most popular routes. This guide book has great route maps and beta. A must for a first timer traveling to Yosemite.
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Rock Jock's Guide to Queen Creek Canyon, The by Marty Karabin.
MK Productions, 1996.
ISBN: 0-9653974-7-5
Coverage: Queen Creen Canyon, Superior, Arizona
Comments: This is a full and comprehensive guide book, though a bit on the pricey side. Along with good maps, lots of routes, and good beta, it includes history, foliage and fauna information, and local amenities. The only beef I have with it is every route is described as "next to," "to the right of," and "by" every other route, meaning if you can't find the first one, it's tough to find the rest. Regardless, Queen Creek Canyon, the location of the famed Phoenix Bouldering Comp, is large and extensive and this book is a good help to anyone looking to pull rock there.
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SoCal Select: Southwest Rock Climbing by Randy Vogel.
Chockstone Press, 1993.
ISBN: 0-93461-62-5
Coverage: Southern California
Comments: Here is a great guide for those new to Southern California or traveling there for a week or two and want to climb. As the name suggests, it contains the popular routes of the popular climbing areas from Bishop to LA to J. Tree to San Diego. The route descriptions and maps are very standard and easy to follow. Overall a very standard and easy to use guide.
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South Island Rock by Ivan Vostinar & Tim Wethey.
Tim Wethey, 2000.
ISBN: 0473070812
Coverage: The South Island of New Zealand
Comments: This is a great guide book. Not only is it small and compact, it's plastic coated pages are quite weather resistant. It has complete data on each site and pretty easy to ready route maps and descriptions. It even includes the history and other info on the areas. About the only lacking quality of this book is decient directions to the areas themselves. Small area road maps and more descriptive directions would be helpfull.
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Sport Climbing Guide, A: KwaZulu - Natal, South Africa by Harley Green.
1999.
ISBN: n/a
Coverage: Northeastern coastal and inland South Africa
Comments: This is a thing book which (obvisouly) contains only sport routes. It offers good maps but lacks on the route descriptions. But it does offer great beta such as when the sun hits it, apporach times, and slope grades of the crag. It's a great book if you are only about sport climbing and a great suppliment to A Climber's Guide to Natal Rock if you are into the rest of climbing's relm.
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Trad Guide to Joshua Tree, The by Charlie & Diane Winger.
Mountaineers Books.
ISBN: 0-9724413-9-5
Coverage: Joshua Tree National Park
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Vertical Heartland: A Rock Climber's Guide to Southern Illinois by Eric Ulner.
Second West, 2005.
ISBN: 0-9648053-1-6
http://www.verticalheartland.com
Coverage: Southern Illinois
Comments: After just over a decade, midwest climbers have an updated version of this bible of Illinois climbing. Over twice the size of the 2nd edition, it sports over 300 pages in a spiral binding, heavy glossy paper, and a plethora of new routes (and now boulder problems) as well as new areas such as the hard to find Promised Land. As most books do, it offers area maps as well as many easy to read pictures with routes marked. But as most books don't, it offers a comprehensive history of the areas including excerpts of a Civil War soldier's diary who Jackson Falls is named after. The price tag is sort of hefty ($36) and rightly so considering the amount of time and effort Eric has spent compiling it (thanks!). This book is a must have to any midwest climber.
Buy it here.
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Yosemite Topropes by Rob Floyd.
Sharp End Publishing, 1999.
ISBN: 1-892540-05-3
Coverage: Yosemite Valley
Comments: A compilation of easy to get to top-ropes for day trips and non-trad climbers who still want to utilize Yosemite's splender.
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